Cooking San Francisco

Butternut and Acorn Squash Soup

The original recipe found in the December 1996 issue of Bon Appétit magazine explains, “In France, this soup would be prepared with a baking pumpkin. A mixture of butternut and acorn squashes mimics the French pumpkin's exceptional taste and texture.” It's true; the flavor of the two squashes simmered together with fresh herbs produces a great soup. However, we won't lie; peeling and cutting the squash is a bit of a pain. To make things much easier, though slightly more expensive, you can purchase 8 cups of pre-cut and packaged butternut squash at Whole Foods (as much as we love Trader Joe's for many grocery items, we don't recommend their pre-cut, bagged squash) and omit the acorn squash. You might not end up with the aforementioned perfect French pumpkin flavor, but you will still have a satisfying and healthy winter soup. Alternatively, you could bake the acorn squash beforehand and scoop it out when it is tender (see baking instructions below).

Also, we omitted the sugar in the original recipe and substituted yogurt for whipping cream and we preferred both the taste difference and the health benefits. The croutons are a nice crunchy, salty addition, but we have served the soup without them when pressed for time.

Soup
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
5 1/2 cups low-salt chicken broth
4  cups 1-inch pieces peeled butternut squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
4  cups 1-inch pieces peeled acorn squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh sage

1/4  cup thick, 2% fat Greek yogurt

Croutons
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
24 1/4 inch-thick baguette bread slices
1 cup grated Gruyère cheese
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon minced fresh sage

Melt butter in large pot over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and sauté until tender, about 10 minutes. Add broth, all squash and herbs; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until squash is very tender, about 20 minutes.

Turn off the heat and puree soup with a hand blender. (Alternatively, working in small batches and being careful not to fill the container too full, puree soup in the blender. Return soup to same pot.) Whisk in the yogurt and bring to simmer. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Chill. Reheat over medium heat before serving.)

For croutons:

While soup is simmering, preheat broiler. Butter 1 side of each bread slice. Arrange bread, buttered side up, on baking sheet. Broil until golden, about 1 minute. Turn over. Sprinkle cheese, then thyme and sage over. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil until cheese melts, about 1 minute. Ladle soup into bowls. Top each with croutons and serve.

Variation: Baking acorn squash
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Halve squash and remove seeds.  Place cut side down on a baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, or until tender.

Serves 8

Prep Time: 30 minutes to 45 minutes (if cutting and peeling squash yourself and making croutons)
Cook Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes

Spiced Cocktail Nuts

These savory nuts from the Tartine Cookbook are a snap to whip up and last for two weeks, so they are perfect to have around the house during the holidays. As you can see, they also make a great gift especially when paired with a nice bottle of wine. The recipe makes four, 1 1/2 cup servings that fit nicely into a small gift bag, with about a cup left over for the cook to enjoy.

3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 1/2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup raw almonds
2/3 cup raw cashews
1 cup pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds)
5 cups unsalted peanuts

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper

2. Pick the leaves from the thyme and rosemary springs and chop the leaves coarsely. In a mixing bowl, combine the thyme, rosemary corn syrup, cayenne pepper, salt and pepper and mix well. Add all the nuts and mix thoroughly with your hands or a wooden spoon.

3. Spread the nuts evenly on the prepared baking sheet. Roast the nut mixture, stirring a few times with a heatproof rubber spatula to ensure that the nuts color evenly, until they are fragrant and a rich brown color, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely. The nuts will keep in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Makes about 7 cups

Prep Time: 15 min
Cook Time: 15 min
Total Time: 30 min

 

    

 

 


 

Cheddar Cheese Shortbread with Pepper Jelly

These tasty nuggets, courtesy of Martha Stewart, are rich and crunchy and make a perfect holiday hostess gift or a quick, pull-it-out-of-the freezer-at the-last-minute appetizer to serve to guests at home. The shortbread mixes up so quickly in the food processor that you'll have plenty of time to relax and enjoy the holiday season. We recommend that you buy the best quality, sharpest cheddar cheese you can find. We used cranberry jalapeno jelly, but Earth and Vine makes a great Red Bell Pepper and Ancho Chili Jam that would work well and is more widely available.

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground paprika
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup grated sharp white cheddar cheese
1/3    cup    pepper jelly

1. Combine flour, salt, paprika, and cayenne pepper in a food processor fitted with the metal blade; pulse to combine. Add butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add cheese; process until dough starts to hold together.

2. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface; knead a few times. Divide into 4 equal pieces, and roll into logs, each about 6 inches long and 1 1/4 inches in diameter. Wrap in plastic; refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour or up to 3 days. Dough can be stored in the freezer at this point for up to 1 month.

3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper. Cut dough into 1/3-inch-thick slices; place 2 inches apart onto prepared baking sheets. Bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven; let cool on baking sheet 1 minute, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

4. When ready to serve, spoon a small amount of jelly onto center of each coin.

 
  

Ricotta and Fig Jam

This creamy, fruity appetizer from our Easy Thanksgiving Appetizers post really could not be simpler. First, you need to find very good quality, fresh ricotta, and second, a nice fig jam or spread. Spoon 1 cup of ricotta in small serving dish then pour 1/4 cup of fig jam over ricotta. Serve with crackers.

Serves 6

Prep Time: 5 min
Total Time: 5 min

 

Curried Pumpkin Seeds

This Bon Appétit, November 2006 recipe made it on our Easy Thankgiving Appetizers list not only because the pumpking seeds are spicy, crunchy and seasonal, but also because they can be made five days in advance, which is really helpful when you discover that the corn pudding, pumpkin pies and sweet potato soufflés all have to go in the oven at the same time.  Store toasted seeds airtight at room temperature.

Nonstick vegetable oil spray
1 large egg white
1 tbsp fresh lime juice
1 tsp olive oil
2 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp curry powder
1 1/2 tsp coarse kosher salt
1/8 tsp cayenne pepper
12 ounces hulled pumpkin seeds (about 2 1/2 cups)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line large rimmed baking sheet with parchment; spray with nonstick spray. Whisk egg white, lime juice, and oil in large bowl.

2. Add next 4 ingredients and whisk again. Add pumpkin seeds and toss. Transfer seeds to baking sheet, spreading evenly. Bake until toasted and fragrant, stirring often, about 24 minutes. Cool on sheet and serve.

Serves 8

Prep Time: 10 min
Cook Time: 25 min
Total Time: 35 min

Ricotta, Lemon and Herbs on Cucumber Rounds

 

This Easy Thanksgiving Appetizer was inspired by Giada DeLaurentiis' Crostini with Ricotta and Goat Cheese,  but we added mint, more lemon flavor and substituted cucumbers for crostini to keep things light.

8 oz good quality, fresh ricotta
2 oz soft goat cheese
2 tbsp chopped fresh basil
2 tbsp chopped fresh mint
1 tsp lemon zest
1 tbsp lemon juice
salt and freshly cracked black pepper
1 English cucumber
good quality extra virgin olive oil

1. Place first six ingredients in a medium bowl and stir to combine. Add salt and pepper to taste.

2. Slice cucumber into thin rounds and arrange on platter. Put a scant teaspoon of the ricotta mixture on each round. Drizzle rounds with olive oil and serve.

Serves 6

Prep Time: 10 min
Total Time: 10 min

Fruit and Nut Platter

This is less a recipe than a presentation idea from our Easy Thanksgiving Appetizers post. We purchase a few different kinds of fresh and dried fruits and nuts then arrange them decoratively on a wooden cutting board or platter. In this version we used dried apricots, cranberries, apples and bananas, as well as spiced pecans and Marcona almonds. You can throw in some small fresh fruit in for good measure. Satsuma oranges, tangerines, Seckel pears and grapes are delicious and in season.

Easy Thanksgiving Appetizers

For many people, and we're no exception, Thanksgiving is a day of decadent eating. As such, we have often tried to out-do the dinner itself with a number of filling appetizers like a creamy crab mold or rich and flaky baked brie. Last year, we decided to serve appetizers that looked more like what you would find in the lobby of a high-end spa, that is, an assortment of dried fruits and nuts and light, vegetable-oriented snacks. We did this in part because we were pressed for time, but also in an effort to prevent a post-meal cardiac or digestive episode.  To our delight, family members were thrilled to not be tempted by rich hors d'oeuvres just before the largest meal of the year.

Over the next few days we'll post some delicious and easy appetizers that will leave your guests satisfied but won't ruin their supper:

• Fruit and Nut Platter
• Curried Pumpkin Seeds
• Ricotta two ways: Ricotta and Herbs on Cucumber Rounds and Ricotta and Fig Jam.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Pigs in Blankets

   

We always serve these American classics on Halloween before heading out into the cold, dark mayhem that is trick-or-treating. It will come as no surprise that they are loved by kids and adults alike. We used Let's Be Frank uncured beef hot dogs that we bought from their new store on Steiner street. These dogs are meaty, succulent and just a little bit spicy.  And about as healthy as hot dogs get. The PIBs can be made earlier in the day, stored in the fridge and popped in the oven just before you want to serve them. Our crispy carrot fries make a great accompaniment!

2 puff pastry sheets from a 17oz box, thawed
6 all-beef hot dogs
1 egg yolk
1 tsp milk
1 Tbsp sesame seeds
1 Tbsp poppy seeds
1 Tbsp red pepper flakes

Special equipment: pastry brush

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

2. Cut the pastry into 6 equal strips and cut each strip into 2 pieces. Cut the hot dogs into 4 equal pieces. Place 1 hot dog piece onto a piece of the pastry and roll until the pastry meets itself. Press gently to seal. Place on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining hot dogs and pastry.

3. Mix egg yolk and milk in a small bowl to make an egg wash. Brush the pastry tops with the egg wash. Sprinkle 8 with the sesame seeds and 8 with the poppy seeds and 8 with the red pepper flakes.

4. Bake in the top half of the oven until the pastry is puffed and golden, about 15 to 18 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool for 5 minutes. Serve with ketchup and mustard.

Serves 6

Prep Time: 15 mins
Cook Time: 15 mins
Total Time: 30 mins

 

 

 

   

 

   

Grilled Peaches with Pecorino and Prosciutto

 

We choose this fruity and fragrant appetizer from Bon Appetit’s August 2006 issue to start off our dinner in the vineyards. As Italians and lovers of Italian food everywhere know, salty prosciutto and juicy summer fruit, (especially melon, though we've also encountered pears and kiwi, too) is a natural and popular combination. The slices of Pecorino Romano, a hard sheep's milk cheese similar to Parmigiano-Reggiano, melt into the caramelized peaches and chewy prosciutto, adding a sharp saltiness to each bite. We do love our Italian meats and therefore used more prosciutto than called for in the original recipe.   According to CUESA's fruit chart, peaches are available into October, so there's still plenty of time to enjoy this incredibly easy dish. We recommend using yellow peach varieties as we tried a few white peaches but found that their more delicate flavor didn’t stand up to the cheese and meat as well.

Nonstick vegetable or olive oil spray
4 firm but ripe large peaches, halved, pitted
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
salt and pepper
8 thin slices Pecorino Romano cheese
8 thin slices prosciutto

1. Prepare barbecue or grill pan. (Gas grills should be turned to high and briquettes in charcoal grills should be very hot. Grill or pan should be covered with cooking spray or brushed with olive oil.)

2. Brush peach halves with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill peaches until lightly charred and caramelized, about 2 minutes per side.

 

3. Place peaches on large serving platter, skin side down; Top each with cheese slice and drape with prosciutto. Drizzle all peach halves with a bit more olive oil. Serve immediately.

Serves 4-6

Prep time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Total time: 15 minutes