Cooking San Francisco

Fennel, Orange and Parmesan Salad

Now is the time to take advantage of the abundance of bright, fragrant citrus available in stores and markets. We used pink-fleshed Cara Caras and sunny California Navels. Blood Oranges would add some dramatic flair and sweetness to this salad as well.

1 bulb of fennel, frawns removed
3 medium, seedless navel oranges
2 ounce block Parmesan cheese, thinly shaved
1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
 sea salt
 freshly ground black pepper

1. Remove the core at the bottom of the fennel bulb and thinly slice lenghtwise. You will end up with small sections.

2. With a small, sharp paring knife remove the skin and pith from each orange by slicing around the shape of the orange (for more on this click here). Slice the oranges width-wise into 1/4 inch slices.

3. Arrange orange slices and fennel sections on a platter or individual plates. With a knife or cheese shaver carefully shave the Parmesan cheese over the platter of fennel and oranges.

4. In a small bowl whisk together the Champagne vinegar and olive oil and drizzle over the platter. (You may end up with extra vinagrette depending on how heavily you want to dress the salad.) Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Serves 4

Prep Time: 15 min
Total Time: 15 min

Potato and Swiss Chard Gratin with Gruyere

 

This recipe was born out of sheer necessity.  One day after Star Apple's monthly garden maintenance visit, I arrived home to find a bountiful harvest of chard on my kitchen counter. The vibrant rainbow chard that accents my garden had really taken to the San Francisco fog and now it was time to figure out how to prepare it.

Kerrie and I immediately thought of a favorite gratin recipe from Bellweather Farms (Petaluma, CA) and adapted it to include the chard. This combination of creamy potatoes, lively greens, and sharp, nutty gruyere cheese makes for a comforting side dish that goes nicely with roast turkey, or it can be served as a vegetarian entrée with a wild greens salad.

-Daphne

Cooks notes:
-A pasta pot with a strainer insert works nicely for boiling the potatoes and chard.
-You can adjust the quantities of potatoes and chard according to personal taste

1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced in half
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
1 large slice of onion
1 1/2 pounds yellow potatoes, ideally Yukon gold, thinly sliced
1 bunch Swiss chard, leaves cut from the ribs, leaves cut into 1/2 inch ribbons and ribs cut into 1/2 inch pieces
8 ounces crème fraiche
1 1/2 cups of Gruyere cheese, grated
salt
freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Rub the inside of a medium-sized gratin or baking dish with both halves of the garlic clove (reserve garlic clove). Smear butter inside the dish, making sure to coat the bottom and sides.

2. Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Carefully drop the sliced potatoes in the water along with the onion slice and reserved garlic clove and boil for 5 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the water with a strainer, but leave the water in the pot.  Put potatoes in a bowl and set aside.

3. Return the pot water to a boil and add the chard leaves and stems. Boil chard for 5 minutes. Remove chard from water, then drain on a paper towels (you can discard the water this time). Set aside.

4. Layer half of the potatoes in the gratin dish. Evenly distribute chard on top of potatoes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with 4 ounces of crème fraiche and  _ cup of cheese. Layer the rest of the potatoes followed by remaining crème fraiche and cheese.

5. Bake for 40 minutes or until cheese is browned on top and gratin is bubbling and heated through.

Serves 8, as a side dish

Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 40 minutes
Total Time 1 hour

Spiced Popcorn

 
 

We found this salty-sweet gem of a recipe on Goop.com and we refer to it as poor man's (or busy woman's) caramel corn. It's no more difficult than popping corn on the stove top, and much less sticky and temperamental than caramel corn. This buttery fusion of popcorn and cinnamon has Fall written all over it and is certain be hit at a movie night or Halloween party.

Kids will love this, but by all means do not let your young children help you make it. You have hot oil and melted sugar to contend with and proper execution requires your complete attention for 5 to 7 minutes. Better to make this snack when they are out of the house and surprise them with it when they come home.

A few notes about stovetop popping: It's not complicated, per se, but achieving the right heat balance that doesn't burn the sugar or the already popped corn, yet allows all the kernels to pop, is more art than science. The trick is to shake the pot (a la Jiffy Pop) while the corn is popping and to listen carefully for the end of the popping. To make one batch we used a 3 quart covered, stainless steel saucepan. You can double the recipe and pop the corn in a larger stock pot, just make sure the kernels are only one layer deep in the bottom of the pot.

1/4 cup butter
1 tablespoon canola or vegetable oil (we've been using grapeseed oil lately for various reasons, be          sure to buy food grade, expeller-pressed)
1/2 cup corn kernels
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

 1. Melt butter gently in a heavy-bottomed metal pot over medium low heat (you don't want it to burn). Once it's melted, add the oil, corn kernels and sugar, stirring to make sure all ingredients are well combined.

2. Turn the heat up a smidge (on our gas stove it's between medium and medium low). Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook until you to hear the kernels begin to pop, about 3 minutes.

3. Once the kernels are popping rapidly, grab two potholders, lift the pot slightly off the burner and shake the pot. (This keeps the kernels and other ingredients from burning. You can even take the pot off the burner for a few seconds to moderate the heat.)

4. As soon as you hear the kernels stop popping, remove the pot from the heat, take off the lid and dump the popcorn into a waiting bowl. Dust the popcorn with the salt, cinnamon and nutmeg and toss with a wooden spoon until popcorn is coated.

Makes about 15 handfuls

Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 5 minutes
Total Time 10 minutes

 
 

Asparagus with Parmesan Breadcrumbs

We've just bought our first asparagus of the season and it's great to have you back, old friend!  Our favorite preparation method of the moment is broiling. It produces the same depth of flavor as roasting but in much less time. It's just important that you keep a close eye on the oven, as the high temperature will turn your tender green stalks to charcoal sticks if you aren't paying attention. (Honestly, for attention-challenged people like ourselves, this is the hardest part of this recipe). We think freshly made breadcrumbs work best for the topping. We put two pieces of sourdough bread in the food processor and ground them to the desired crumb size then added the cheese, zest, salt and pepper. If you already have bread crumbs, it's fine to toss everything together as the recipe states.

1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided
1/2 tsp grated lemon zest
2 pounds asparagus, tough ends snapped off

1. Adjust oven rack so that it sits 6 inches below heating element and heat broiler. Toss breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese and lemon zest with 1 tablespoon olive oil in bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Toss asparagus with remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil on large rimmed baking sheet and season well with salt and pepper. Spread asparagus in single layer on baking sheet and broil, shaking pan halfway through, until asparagus is tender and lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes.

3. Transfer asparagus to broiler-safe baking dish. Spoon breadcrumb mixture over asparagus and broil until lightly browned, 30 to 60 seconds, watching carefully. Serve.

Serves 4

Prep Time: 10 min
Cook Time: 8 min
Total Time: 18 min

Baked Risotto with Parmesan Cheese

In the dead of winter (yes, even a 50 degrees-with-a-chance-of-rain San Francisco winter) it's hard to beat the creamy, yet chewy nuggets of Arborio rice that have absorbed flavorful chicken broth like
little sponges. We don't make risotto as much as we used to; the small children and their inevitable interruptions have made it challenging (at best) to stand over a stove and carefully stir the risotto until perfect broth absorption is achieved. Which is why we were thrilled to find this recipe in Donna Hay's Instant Entertaining. We discovered this gem of a recipe over the holidays and served it to a crowd on Christmas Eve about an hour after the cat jumped over a lit Duraflame log and ran up the chimney, but that's a story for another day. (He was heroically rescued and survived without a scratch.)

Egg Custard with Gruyere Cheese and Thyme

This is one of those recipes that we can't believe it took us this long to discover. We found it in Gourmet Magazine, December 2008, while searching for quick breakfast food that could be served to a crowd on a busy morning, say for example, Christmas Day.  There are so many good things to say about this recipe it's hard to know where to start. The final product is a satisfying melange of fluffy egg, melted Gruyere and herbal thyme. The recipe itself takes almost no time to put together, thanks to the use of a blender, one of our favorite kitchen appliances. Not to mention that you can serve it for breakfast, lunch or dinner (we've done them all). It is also very flexible and ripe for substitutions. We replaced the original chives with fresh thyme, and though we added cooked bacon pieces in one version we made; leftover ham or sausage would also be wonderful. We used Trader Joe's Light Organic Whipped Cream Cheese, which worked very nicely to stabilize the eggs and milk. If you are looking for something sweet to serve on an early holiday morning, stay tuned for our breakfast bread pudding.

2 cups coarsely grated Gruyère (6 ounces)
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
10 large eggs
1 1/2 cups whole milk
4 ounces cream cheese, whipped or softened
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt

1. Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. Butter a 2-quart shallow baking dish (2 inches deep). Sprinkle Gruyère and thyme evenly in dish.

2. Blend eggs, milk, cream cheese, nutmeg, pepper and salt in a blender until smooth. Pour egg mixture over Gruyère and thyme in dish and bake until puffed, set, and golden, approximately 35 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Serves 8

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 35 minutes
Total Time: 45 minutes

 

 

Spiced Cocktail Nuts

These savory nuts from the Tartine Cookbook are a snap to whip up and last for two weeks, so they are perfect to have around the house during the holidays. As you can see, they also make a great gift especially when paired with a nice bottle of wine. The recipe makes four, 1 1/2 cup servings that fit nicely into a small gift bag, with about a cup left over for the cook to enjoy.

3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh rosemary
2 1/2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup raw almonds
2/3 cup raw cashews
1 cup pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds)
5 cups unsalted peanuts

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper

2. Pick the leaves from the thyme and rosemary springs and chop the leaves coarsely. In a mixing bowl, combine the thyme, rosemary corn syrup, cayenne pepper, salt and pepper and mix well. Add all the nuts and mix thoroughly with your hands or a wooden spoon.

3. Spread the nuts evenly on the prepared baking sheet. Roast the nut mixture, stirring a few times with a heatproof rubber spatula to ensure that the nuts color evenly, until they are fragrant and a rich brown color, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely. The nuts will keep in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

Makes about 7 cups

Prep Time: 15 min
Cook Time: 15 min
Total Time: 30 min

 

    

 

 


 

Crispy Carrot Fries

The carrot, while available all year round, is a quintessential October vegetable with its vivid orange color and earthy taste. In our case, it's an ideal vegetable to push on family members before the full force of Halloween snacks and candies descend upon us. We love this dish because it couldn't be more simple to prepare, and the roasting transforms this ordinary snack vegetable into a sweet and smoky side dish. Even though the roasted carrots are quite sweet by themselves, a small drizzle of honey adds a nice depth of flavor.

1 1/2 pounds carrots (10 medium)
2 Tbsp olive oil
1/2  tsp salt
pinch of ground pepper
honey

1.  Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

2. Cut away the tips and ends of each carrot and peel.
Cut each carrot in half and then cut in quarters,
place on a rimmed baking sheet.

3. In a mixing bowl, combine the carrot sticks, olive oil, salt, and pepper.  Coat the carrots evenly.

4. Roast for 15 minutes and toss once. Continue cooking until the carrots are tender and well browned, about 5 minutes more.  Remove carrots from oven and drizzle with honey, if desired. Serve the carrot fries hot or at room temperature.

Serves: 4

Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 25 minutes

Tofu Baked in Soy, Ginger and Honey Sauce

We have (or least one of us has) historically been a little wary of tofu. The wobbly texture and subtle taste never seemed particularly enticing. But, years pass, cholesterol levels rise, and it's time to try new things. The sauce in this recipe is so simple to make and adds so much of flavor to the tofu that even the skeptics in our families were convinced that tofu is a perfectly reputable and delicious dinner option. We served it with nutty brown rice and crisp sugar snap peas, tossed with toasted sesame oil. (We always have pre-cooked brown rice in the cupboard since we often fail to account for the requisite 45 minutes needed to cook the rice ourselves). If you are looking for another great introductory tofu dish that you don't have to make yourself, try the Shitake Spring Rolls found at our local organic cafe The Plant.

1 firm tofu cake (12oz)
1 Tbsp +2 tsp soy sauce
1 Tbsp water
1 Tbsp dark sesame oil
2 tsp freshly grated ginger root
1 tsp tomato paste
1 tsp rice vinegar
1 tsp honey

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 

 

2. Remove tofu from packaging and place in shallow bowl. Place a plate on top of the tofu and put something heavy on top of the plate, like a large can of tomatoes. Let sit for at least 15 minutes, or until most of the moisture has been released.

3. Meanwhile blend the rest of the ingredients in a small bowl.

4. Slice tofu into 12 pieces. Arrange tofu in small baking dish and cover with sauce.

5. Bake for 35 minutes, turning once, until tofu is hot and nicely browned.

Serves: 4

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 35 minutes
Total Time: 55 minutes

Red Lentil Soup with Lemon

This truly wonderful soup recipe by Melissa Clark was originally published in the New York Times in the dead of winter. But, for those of us who live in San Francisco, the summer months of June and July are also soup weather (we are rewarded later with a beautiful Fall and a lack snow in the driveway during the actual Winter). Do not under any circumstances leave out the lemon juice at the end, it highlights the flavor of the lentils and spices.

 

3 tbsp olive oil, more for drizzling
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tbsp tomato paste
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp kosher salt, more to taste
1 tsp ground black pepper
pinch of ground chili powder or cayenne, more to taste
1 quart chicken or vegetable broth
1 cup red lentils
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
juice of 1 lemon, more to taste
3 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro (or basil)

1. In a large pot, heat 3 tablespoons oil over high heat until hot and shimmering.  Add onion and garlic, and saute until golden, about 4 minutes.

2.  Stir in tomato paste, cumin, salt, black pepper and chili powder or cayenne, and saute for 2 minutes longer.

3.  Add broth, lentils and carrot. Bring to a simmer, then partially cover pot and turn heat to medium-low.  Simmer until lentils are soft, about 30 minutes.  Taste and add salt if necessary.

4. Using an immersion or regular blender or a food processor, puree half the soup then add it back to the pot.  Soup should be somewhat chunky.

5.  Reheat soup if necessary, then stir in lemon juice and cilantro (or basil).  Serve soup drizzled with good olive oil and dusted lightly with chili powder if desired. 

Serves: 4

Prep Time: 15
Cook Time: 30
Total Time: 45